Ethan Stowell’s fourth restaurant, Anchovies and Olives, opened Thursday night in Capitol Hill. We stopped by yesterday to see the space and try a few dishes.
Gnocchi with lobster and mint
A&O is on the corner of 15th and Pine, making it a great spot for people-watching, with a seemingly never-ending parade of folks outside. Inside, the high-ceilinged space is simple, with an open kitchen like Tavolata and How to Cook a Wolf. The food is reminiscent of both places, but here, it’s focused on seafood, with a seafood component in every dish.
Highlights for us included romanesco cauliflower salad with soft-cooked egg (perfectly dressed and seasoned), gnocchi with lobster and mint, and ocean trout with yellowfoot mushrooms and sunchoke purée. We had heard good things about the spaghetti with sea urchin from friends who went the night before; the flavors were all there, but the pasta was undercooked and too chewy. We neglected the crudo appetizers tonight, but intend on trying them next time.
Dessert options are simple – a sorbet, a gelato, and a cheese plate. Dawn enjoyed the grapefruit campari sorbet, while I had a sweet ending of chocolate and orange gelato.
Anchovies and Olives
1550 15th Ave, Seattle