Archive for the 'Travel' Category


Brittany, Normandy, and Paris

Sunday, August 9th, 2009

Ok, so it’s been three months since we promised you this blog entry. We’ve been busy enjoying one of the sunniest summers we’ve seen in Seattle in a long time, and somehow time has slipped away faster than we expected.  But we’ve finally got all of the photos from our trip to France together with the travelogue of our adventures.

Salted butter caramel macarons and orbs of English Gray tea at Le Bistrol.
Salted butter caramel macarons and orbs of Early Grey tea at Le Bistrol, Paris.

Click here to read it all.  Food highlights include:

Comments aren’t yet enabled on the photo and travelogue section of our web site, so if you have feedback about anything, drop us a note below.  Enjoy!


The Portland food rampage

Monday, July 20th, 2009

Six of us met up in Portland for three days this past weekend for the sole purpose of eating our way around the city.  Our friends Kye and Eric initially proposed the idea so that we could all try their favorite Portland restaurant, Tanuki, and we were immediately on board along with friends Michael and Robin.  All six of us like to fully research our food stops before we travel, so soon we collectively had a list that would take us at least two weeks to tackle.  We somehow managed to whittle it down to these:

Making vacuum pot coffee at Barista; macaroni and cheese at Laurelhurst Market; drinks at Beaker & Flask.
Making vacuum pot coffee at Barista; macaroni and cheese at Laurelhurst Market; drinks at Beaker & Flask.

Laurelhurst Market – This is a new restaurant and butcher shop owned by the same folks as Simpatica Dining Hall, where we had an awesome brunch a few years back.  We checked into the hotel and headed straight here for dinner.  Some of the highlights were the pork chop sandwich with tomato sauce and arugula, the cod fritters, their super-tasty fries with herbs and the perfect amount of salt (though not crispy enough), and sweetbreads with gnocchi.  We heard the boudin blanc sandwiches were great, but the menu changes weekly and these were weeks-gone by our visit.  But you can buy the boudin blanc and other amazing-looking charcuterie from their cold case in the front of the store. Laurelhurst Market on Urbanspoon

Beaker & Flask – We stopped at this month-old bar for cocktails after dinner.  They offer a tasty-sounding dinner and happy hour menu, but we were pretty stuffed already from dinner and so we stuck with drinks.  The vibe here is great, while we found the cocktails hit and miss.  Eric liked his Philo Bione, while the Coltrane! Coltrane! Coltrane! was too medicinal for everyone’s taste. Beaker and Flask on Urbanspoon

Barista – First stop on Friday morning was this vacuum pot coffee brewer in the Pearl District.  Not only is the brewing fun to watch as the heat pushes the water into the upper vessel, but the bitterness of the coffee is completely removed, making it smooth to drink.  Even one of the non-coffee drinkers in our group was impressed with the coffee and loved how smooth it was. Barista on Urbanspoon

Broder – For a taste of Sweden in Portland, we headed to Broder to try their aebleskiver pancakes and Swedish meatballs.  The aebleskiver are round eggy pancakes served with lemon curd (my favorite), lingonberry jam, and maple syrup.  The meatballs come in a lovely sherry cream sauce. Broder on Urbanspoon

Slathering lemon curd on aebleskiver at Broder Cafe; Nong, of Nong's Khao Man Gai street food cart; sour cherry tartlette with vanilla bean whipped cream and aged balsamic caramel at Beast.
Slathering lemon curd on aebleskiver at Broder Cafe; Nong, of Nong’s Khao Man Gai street food cart; sour cherry tartlette with vanilla bean whipped cream and aged balsamic caramel at Beast.

Next, we moved straight on to lunch, a tour around Portland’s street carts.  Seattle has been all abuzz with the new street carts opening recently in our fair city, but we’ve got nothing on Portland.  Really, I had no idea there could be such a variety of carts scattered all over a single city.  On their own, or more commonly, in clusters together taking up an entire parking lot (Skillet is working on starting Seattle’s first such street food market later this year), there is every possible variety of food to be found on the streets of Portland.  There are so many carts that there’s an entire site devoted to reviewing them:  Food Carts Portland.  Get yourself down to Portland.  Now.  There is nothing to match the experience of a sunny summer day sitting on a curb eating street cart food.

Koi Fusion – Only a few months old, this is Portland’s Korean taco truck.  Kogi is the famous Korean taco truck in L.A., and Seattle has our own Hawaiian-Korean truck, Marination Mobile.  At Koi, Eric and I tried a kimchee quesadilla and beef bulgogi taco.  The kimchee here definitely beats Marination’s.  Bo is the owner and face of the truck, while his mom is the cook behind the cart, making the marinated meat, kimchee, and tortillas by hand.  Many of the carts in Portland have fixed locations, but Koi is a cart on the move.  You can keep up with their location by following them on twitter @koifusionpdx.

Nong’s Khao Man Gai – Following suit with the style of the traditional street carts in Thailand, this cart only offers one dish, unlike most of the other Portland carts.  At first, the steamed chicken (gai) and rice (khao) dish looks simple and perhaps bland, but the secret to its addictive goodness is in Nong’s garlicky sauce, with flavors of ginger, chili, and galangal in perfect balance.  Served with a clear broth to slurp between bites, you have yourself some seriously good Thai street food.  You can add an option of chicken liver, but she ran out by the time we got here at 1:30.  In fact, as soon as we placed our order, a sign went up telling people they were completely out of food for the day. Nong's Khao Man Gai on Urbanspoon

Spella Caffe – On our walk to our next stop, we grabbed chai teas from the Spella Caffe cart at SW 9th and Alder.  Normally served hot, we got ours over ice, since there’s no other way to drink it with the 90 degree heat.  Milky with a nice blend of spices, this was a good thirst-quencher. Spella Caffe on Urbanspoon

BrunchBox Food Cart – Our street food guide joining us for lunch today, Patrick Coleman (writer for the Portland Mercury), steered us to BrunchBox to satisfy our grilled cheese sandwich burger cravings.  Initially, we were planning to head to The Grilled Cheese Grill to try this monstrosity of a burger, but he said the version at BrunchBox was less greasy, plus it was a convenient short walk away from Nong’s.  The Youcanhascheeseburger! is a burger served between two Texas-toast grilled cheese sandwich buns.  The burger was initially a joke written on the menu, but it has become a regular menu item since people actually ordered it!  The latest joke at BrunchBox is the Redonkadonk: a burger with egg, ham, spam, bacon, and American cheese between two Texas-toast grilled cheese sandwich buns for $9.  People are ordering that, too, so they’re now offering a double Redonkadonk. BrunchBox Food Cart on Urbanspoon

Discussing the merits of the Pine State Biscuit breakfast plates; talking with Bo at Koi Fusion PDX; soppressata pizza at Ken's Artisan Pizza.
Discussing the merits of the Pine State Biscuit breakfast plates; talking with Bo at Koi Fusion PDX; soppressata pizza at Ken’s Artisan Pizza.

Rogue Distillery – The heat was getting to us by this point, so we looked for a place to hang out indoors and rest our feet.  Rogue was a great place to try a sampling of beers, along with the Rogue root beer.  As we were sitting there, we saw a stout ice cream float delivered to the neighboring table – that would’ve been ideal for a day like this! Rogue Ales Public House on Urbanspoon

Beast – Dinner this evening was six courses at Beast with wine pairings.  We’d all tried Beast for brunch previously, but this was our first dinner there.  The chilled cauliflower velouté was a tasty start to the meal.  The was followed by a charcuterie plate, where the highlight was the foie gras bon-bon: a melt-in-your-mouth dome of foie on a tiny shortbread cookie, and topped with Sauternes geleé.  The duck leg for the main course was very nicely balanced with a green tomato confiture, and this was followed by a lovely shaved fennel salad with Parmesan crisps, then a cheese plate, and a tiny cherry tartlette. Beast on Urbanspoon

Ken’s Artisan Pizza – We were stuffed after Beast, but with so little time in Portland, we couldn’t pause on food.  Several of us have previously been to Apizza Scholls and consider it the best pizza Portland has to offer.  But none of us had been to Ken’s, another highly acclaimed Portland pizza.  The two aren’t exactly comparable apples for apples – Apizza is aiming more for NY-style, while Ken’s is inspired by Italy.  We ordered one Margherita pizza for the six of us, figuring we’d each get a taste.  The waitress gave us a funny look and started to tell us that one pizza may not be enough, until we explained how this was dessert after our six-course meal, and we had to try it before we went back to Seattle.  After realizing we were serious, she steered us toward the soppressata instead, since we were only going to have one.  This was a great recommendation: crunchy around the edges of the thin-sliced soppresata, and the right ratio of toppings.  However, everyone agreed the crust at Apizza is better.  The best part was when the waitress comped our meal after we provided her a list of our favorite restaurants in Seattle for her upcoming trip north. Ken's Artisan Pizza on Urbanspoon

Whiffies Fried Pie Cart – We had one last stop to make before heading to bed.  Opened two months ago, Whiffies’ street cart specialty is fried pies.  I had trouble picturing what a fried pie would be like until they described it to us as shaped like an empanada.  It’s really a gourmet version of the Hostess fruit pies from your childhood.  We hear the savory pies are great, such as the BBQ brisket, but just thinking about one of those or a Beans & Franks fried pie after our food rampage made us all groan in pain.  Instead we split two sweet pies among the six of us: a guava and a strawberry pie.  Everyone besides me preferred the guava, but I loved the strawberry.  The pies have a super-flaky crust that I could tell would be perfect with a savory flavor.  On the corner of SE 12th and Hawthorne, the cart is open evenings until 3am.  The lot draws a crowd of people until the wee hours of the night. Whiffies Fried Pie Cart on Urbanspoon

Radishes at Portland Farmers Market; a fried Whiffie pie; eating a Ruby Jewel ice cream sandwich.
Radishes at Portland Farmers Market; a fried Whiffie pie; eating a Ruby Jewel ice cream sandwich.

Portland Farmer’s Market – The next morning, we took the street car down to the Saturday market.  First stop was waiting in the long line for Pine State Biscuits.  We tried the Reggie deluxe (fried chicken, bacon, cheese, and a fried egg topped with sausage or mushroom gravy – we ordered two to taste both gravies), the McIsley (fried chicken with pickles, mustard, and honey), and a biscuit with Marionberry jam.  All were great.  Many were fans of the McIsley, while I preferred the Reggie with sausage gravy.  Then we wandered around the stalls, purchasing Marionberries to eat out of (purple) hand, pimientos de padrón which we broiled with oil and salt Sunday night, and fresh squeezed mint lemonade.  We also split a baker’s dozen of Two Tarts’ tiny little bakery treats. Pine State Biscuits on Urbanspoon Two Tarts Bakery on Urbanspoon

Navarre – This was our stop for lunch, a small restaurant serving food inspired by Spain, France, and Italy.  You order by filling out a sheet with your choices of small or large items from the ever-changing menu.  Our favorites here were the boudin blanc, the kohl rabi with sheep’s cheese and blueberries, and the pile of artisan bread, toasted and served with fresh butter and cherry preserves. Navarre on Urbanspoon

Portland International Beerfest – After a stop at Powell’s, the guys walked over to the Beerfest, where they tried a number of draft and bottled beers of all styles.  Eric enjoyed the wheat beers he sampled but was disappointed that the cask-aged beers he was looking forward to were already gone.

Our lunch order at Navarre; upside-down peach cake at Navarre; a couple enjoying dinner at Tanuki.
Our lunch order at Navarre; upside-down peach cake at Navarre; a couple enjoying dinner at Tanuki.

Tanuki – Finally, the meal that we had planned the entire trip around: an omakase dinner at Eric and Kye’s favorite place, Tanuki.  The two of them travel down to Portland about once a month for Chef Janis’ izakaya food, and have been spreading the word ever since their first visit at the New Year.  Matthew Amster-Burton tried it on their recommendation and was impressed enough to do a write-up for Gourmet.  He made a special trip down to Portland to meet us for the dinner, since Janis promised to source some special items not offered on the menu.  Janis kept the food coming for hours, and even after we were stuffed enough to roll home, we wanted to keep tasting all of the amazing plates she set before us: 20 courses in all!  Her food is very traditional in the flavors of Japan and Korea, and her repertoire is vast.  Highlights included oysters with kimchee granita, albacore hand rolls assembled by us at the table, skate in cinnamon-tea sauce, and spicy tantan udon.  We couldn’t believe that she only charged us $50 a person, including all the incredible sakes!  This hole-in-the-wall is a must for your next visit to Portland.  But get there this summer, because Janis is planning some changes very soon. Tanuki on Urbanspoon

Dishes at Tanuki: oysters with shaved kimchi; albacore tuna, cucumber, and nori; cabbage and vegetables with wasabi.
Dishes at Tanuki: oysters with shaved kimchi granita; albacore tuna, cucumber, and nori; cabbage and vegetables with wasabi.

Clyde Common – Since it was only a couple blocks from our hotel, we stopped off here on the way back.  Everyone enjoyed their cocktails, and felt that the drinks here are well-balanced, making this one of the top places in the city for cocktails. Clyde Common on Urbanspoon

Bakery Bar – Matthew persuaded us to meet here in the morning, to try Bakery Bar’s house-made English muffin breakfast sandwiches.  We wanted to see how they compared to Dahlia Bakery’s egg sandwiches.  They definitely have some creative flavors here – I enjoyed my fried egg sandwich with cheddar and bacon-apple-caramelized onion jam, although I think Dahlia still has the edge on the muffins.  Our group was pretty divided on this, though.  The scones were the perfect combination of crusty edges and fluffy insides, and I gobbled up mine made with blue cheese, caramelized onions, and apples.  We all split a banana chocolate mousse cake to take home.  The cakes are beautifully decorated, reasonably priced, and tasty, too. Bakery Bar NE on Urbanspoon

Kenny & Zuke’s SandwichWorks – Last stop before hitting the road was to the new branch of Kenny & Zuke’s, SandwichWorks.  We grabbed sandwiches to-go and said our good-byes before heading back to Seattle. Kenny and Zuke's SandwichWorks on Urbanspoon

For more photos from our Portland trip, check out our flickr stream.  And here are some of our other Portland recommendations from last year.


The Sweet Life in Paris

Monday, May 11th, 2009

Pierre Hermé Ispahan croissant

Eric and I are just off the plane last night from our vacation in France and now recovering from jetlag.  Our typical routine when we return is to awake by 4 or 5:00 a.m. (since it’s impossible for us to sleep any longer) and head out to breakfast somewhere.  Last time, we discovered that Seattle breakfast places don’t open until the oh-so-late hour of 8 or 9, which is no good for hungry people wandering Seattle at 6:30 a.m.  So this time we headed to The Original Pancake House, which we were certain was open.  Nothing like a good American breakfast to welcome us back!  This afternoon, we’ll finish up the last of our bag of Parisian pastries we delicately hand-carried on our return flight – canalé, financiers from Maison Kayser, macarons from Pierre Hermé, and my favorite bite of the trip, an Ispahan croissant from Pierre Hermé, which is filled with their signature rose-flavored almond creme, raspberry gelée, and studded with red flecks of raspberry on top.  The croissant is only one delicacy from the famous Ispahan flavor family from Pierre Hermé, which includes Ispahan macarons, Ispahan bûche de Noel, and more.


Standard parallel parking distance in Paris; breads at Maison Kayser; cheeses at Fromagerie Laurent Dubois.

Now it’s back to reality, work, unpacking, and getting our photos downloaded to our computer.  We’ve found that putting together our photo album and writing our travelog usually takes a few weeks, and even more so this time around since we’ll be busy attending the first International Food Bloggers Conference next weekend.  So hang tight for a little while, or if you can’t wait, go back and read about one of our past trips here (note that we typically only write travelogs for the trips of two or more weeks – try clicking on one of the European links).

In the meantime, I encourage you to pick up a copy of David Lebovitz’s new book, The Sweet Life in Paris.  We headed over to WH Smith just to get a copy while we were in Paris, where their window display was plastered with copies of his book.  The lady at the checkout reminded me that he would be there to sign books only a week later, which would be after we’re back in the U.S. – what I would give to get my book signed!


Les Papilles bistro; our Paris kitchen; Pierre Hermé pastries.

I read it cover to cover, sitting on the Metro, and while giving our feet a break in our Latin Quarter apartment.  We dropped everything to try out his mouth-watering recommendations, which for a lucky week were just a Metro ride away, and we were laughing on every page at his accurate descriptions of Parisians.

Case in point was this excerpt:

“Oh, you were waiting in line?” more than one person has said to me when I’ve busted them for trying to cut in.  “No, not really,” I want to come back with, “I was just standing here in the supermarket with a basketful of items at the register, since I had nothing else to do today.”

One dame who stepped right in front of me at the busy Ladurée on the Champs-Elysées actually turned to me when I spoke up, and said, “Is there really a line?”

To clarify it for her, I pointed out the ten people in single file in front of me and the twenty people waiting behind.  I don’t know how her definition of “a line” differs from mine, but I gave her plenty of time to ponder that as she skulked back to the end of it.

Eric witnessed this in action at the airport on our way home.  He went to purchase a bottle of water for our flight and was standing in line directly behind the tallest person he’d ever seen (Eric didn’t even come up to this guy’s shoulders), with a clear line of people behind him.  This guy was wearing NBA gear and didn’t look like someone you’d want to mess with.  So a Parisian steps in front of him and starts to get out his change to pay for his Perrier.  The basketball player says in a low, deep booming voice, “Hey, this is a line.”  The Parisian looks at him, pauses, and says, “Sorry.  I did not see you.”  What!?  There is no way you could walk into this store and not see this tall guy dressed in bright white.

Page after page in David’s book are hilarious real-life stories like this.  When I’m feeling nostalgic for Paris in a month, I definitely plan to re-read this book.  In the meantime, I’m going to pretend I’m still in Paris as I eat my Ispahan.


The year of the Ox

Saturday, February 14th, 2009


Omakase at Tojo’s.

When our friends Michael and Susan proposed that we make a trip up to Vancouver to celebrate the Chinese New Year, it took us about two seconds to say yes.  It had been a year since our last trip, and we’d been wanting to go back to some of our classic favorite restaurants.  The parade in Chinatown sounded like it’d be fun, too.

So we packed our bags and an empty cooler, and off we went on a Friday afternoon.  We arrived in time for a late dinner reservation at Tojo’s.  It’s been long enough since we’ve dined there that we hadn’t yet seen the new digs.  They’ve moved from a tiny second floor location, to a huge, bright ground floor restaurant.

Our meal was outstanding.  Highlights included: sablefish and sea urchin in a smoky-yummy sauce inside a sea urchin shell; a sesame albacore that reminded me of our favorite starter at Kisaku (but even better), and two kinds of amazing toro nigiri.  The food is special, but the bill at Tojo’s is steep.  Four of us spent as much that night as ten of us would the next evening.  Definitely not an everyday kind of meal.


Oyama Sausage Company; Japadog; fish at the Granville Market.

Saturday morning, we headed straight to Granville Island for coffee and doughnuts.  We’d had great coffee at JJ Bean on a previous trip, rivaling some of our favorite coffees in Seattle.  John and Eric waited in line, while Jacki and I walked around the corner for Lee’s Donuts.  Unfortunately, the filled doughnuts I wanted weren’t ready yet, so I decided to wait.  They said it would be only 15 minutes.  So we grabbed our coffees (which were indeed as good as I remember), and wandered off around the market.

When we arrived back at Lee’s, there they were.  The puffy, sugar-coated doughnuts were ready, with more coming out as we stood there deciding which one.  I finally settled on the lemon-filled, and Eric the chocolate Bavarian.  Oh, man, these were even better than last time.  This was the warmest, freshest doughnut I’ve ever eaten.  The lemon was oozy and sweet, but not overly, with the crunchy sugar on the exterior coating my lips as I tried not to squirt lemon everywhere (I’m sometimes a messier eater than I like to admit).  Eric made some comment about how my lips looked like a margarita glass.


Bread at the Granville Market; JJ Bean coffee; the kitchen at Vij’s.

After picking up some pork lomo and speck from Oyama Sausage Company for our trip home, along with candied fennel seeds, a few pocky sticks for snacks, and matcha tea from one of our favorite Granville stands, South China Seas Trading Company, we headed back downtown.

Eric and I were torn between Japadog or Kintaro Ramen for lunch.  With limited time in Vancouver, we could only do one, so we let our friends decide.  With a six-year-old in party, hotdogs won out.  The little stand on a street corner looked like a normal hotdog stand until you took a closer look at the menu: Terimayo, Misomayo, Okonomi, and Oroshi dogs.  The Terimayo was an all-beef hotdog with Japanese mayo, nori seaweed strips, teriyaki sauce, and fried onions.  With juice dribbling off my fingers, I managed to switch with Eric so I could try the Okonomi next.  It was a juicy Kurobuta pork sausage with okonomiyaki sauce, bonito flakes tacked down from the breeze by Japanese mayo, on top of fried cabbage.  We realized we should have ordered a third, but by this time the line was loooong, with a crowd waiting for their dogs.


Japadogs! Okonomi (top) and Terimayo (bottom).

We spent the afternoon doing a brief bit of shopping followed by a long walk from downtown to the waterfront and halfway along Stanley Park’s exterior edge, before cutting back through the duck pond and up to Denman.  It was a gloriously sunny day, and all of Vancouver seemed to be out.  We didn’t realize how lucky we were with that weather.

It was 4:30 when we headed off to dinner.  Why so early?  We had to get in line for Vij’s.  We were the first in line at quarter to five, and the queue started forming moments later behind us.  By the time the doors opened at 5:30, the line stretched two storefronts down!  It was a good thing we arrived when we did, because our party of ten would have otherwise had hours to wait.

I’ve written about Vij’s here before, and it is still my favorite Indian restaurant anywhere.  While we were deciding what to order, the wait staff served us nibbles of hot pakoras and pooris, along with complimentary chai.  We ended up ordering about a dozen dishes, all good, some outstanding.  I’d forgotten why the lamb popsicles are so popular, but quickly remembered – they were juicy and perfectly cooked, with that amazing cream curry.  I was also a big fan of one of their simplest dishes: saag paneer.  I wonder why that isn’t in their cookbook?  I will make any dish in that cookbook that has paneer – the recipe is simple and turns out great.  My favorite dessert this evening was the gulab jamun, which was the best version of this sticky fried dough I’ve had.


Dining at Vij’s; saag paneer.

We couldn’t leave without a stop next door at Rangoli to pick up some of Vij’s food to fill our cooler for the trip home.  Rangoli is a more casual cafe along with a marketplace selling Vij’s meals, spices, and their excellent cookbook.

The next morning, we all met in Chinatown for the Chinese New Year festivities.  It was a rainy, cold morning, not much different than a winter Seattle day, except for the intermittent wet snow.  After staking out a prime position on the parade route, we eventually gave it up when we all started freezing, and headed over to the Classical Chinese Garden instead, where the gardens were open and booths outside were set up with face painting and crafts for the kids.  While groups with their costumes assembled for the parade, dancers and drummers performed under a tent where everyone crowded in to stay dry.

Rain was constant during the parade, and umbrellas lined the curbs while the colorful groups paraded under the Millennium Gate.  Firecrackers, dragons, and ox helmets were everywhere.  After about 45 minutes, we left to find some dim sum to warm up with.  We headed downtown to Kirin for a change from our usual visit to Sun Sui Wah.


Chinese New Year parade; dim sum at Kirin.

Instead of carts wheeling past, at Kirin you order from a menu and everything comes out made-to-order.  Everything we ordered was good – definitely better than anything we can get in Seattle.  My favorite was the savory radish pudding, a Chinese New Year specialty.  After finishing up with some red bean and sesame desserts, we were on our way home.  Short weekends like that always leave me wanting more, but fortunately Vancouver’s just a short drive away.  Any tips about where we should go next time?

To see more photos from our weekend, go to our photo gallery.

Tojo’s, 1133 W Broadway, Vancouver, BC Tojo's on Urbanspoon

JJ Bean, 1689 Johnston Street, Vancouver, BC Jj Bean on Urbanspoon

Lee’s Donuts, 1689 Johnston Street, Vancouver, BC Lee's Donuts on Urbanspoon

Japadog, 899 Burrard Street, Vancouver, BC Japadog on Urbanspoon

Vij’s, 1480 W 11th Avenue, Vancouver, BC Vij's on Urbanspoon

Rangoli, 1488 W 11th Avenue, Vancouver, BC Rangoli on Urbanspoon

Kirin, 1166 Alberni St, Vancouver, BC Kirin (Downtown) on Urbanspoon


Wisconsin Belgian Red

Saturday, November 8th, 2008

The day before we were headed out to Wisconsin last week to visit my family, our friend Traca found out where we were going and begged us to bring back some beer for her.  Her friend had told her about a cherry beer called Wisconsin Belgian Red, which is not available for retail anywhere outside of Wisconsin (the brewing company’s web site says, “Sorry about the limited distribution, non-Wisconsinites. There are only so many hours in the day to make beer and we can only keep up with the local demand”).  It was top pick in a taste test he had with the beer buyer at Whole Foods.

I had no idea this beer was right there under my nose at my parents’ small-town grocery store.  Although, it’s not really that surprising, because the Wisconsinites I know love sweet wine, and many wines made in Wisconsin are not just made with grapes.  They’ve got raspberry wine, cherry wine, apple wine, and my grandfather even used to make his own dandelion wine.

Wisconsin Belgian Red

Door County (the “thumb” of the hand-shaped state) is known for its cherries, and that’s what New Glarus Brewing Company puts into their Wisconsin Belgian Red.  In fact, there’s a whole pound of the Montmorency cherries in every bottle.  It’s not very hoppy, but more like a cherry sparkling wine that tastes like beer.  We managed to carry back a few bubble-wrapped bottles in our luggage.  They don’t make it easy nowadays with the luggage, weight, and liquid restrictions!


El Bulli taking 2009 reservations this week

Monday, October 13th, 2008

Whenever people discover that we managed a reservation several years ago for two of the coveted seats at El Bulli, they ask, “so, what’s the secret to getting a table?”  I don’t know the answer to that.  Mostly, it was just plain luck, I think.

Ferran Adrià talking with guests at the chef's table in the kitchen
Ferran Adrià talking with guests at the chef’s table in the kitchen.

But the number one thing you need to do to get a reservation is to request it by email during the proper timeframe.  This year, it is October 14, 15, and 16 – that’s right now!  It doesn’t matter if you’re the first person to email them.  The way it works is that they queue up all of the requests together, and then Luis Garcia spends a month sorting through the reservations and filling in all of the dates for 2009.  Usually, the nos start going out first, to those who requested dates on which they’re closed (so check the calendar carefully), or for whatever other reasons.  In 2004, when we made our reservation, the yeses started coming in mid-November and we received ours on November 19.  So you must wait patiently for the reply.  I had actually forgotten about it and was shocked when the affirmative reply arrived in my inbox.  I think I read it at least five times before frantically calling Eric.

What should you write in your email request?  Again, I have no idea, but I can tell you that our message was polite and succinct.  I wrote about two sentences giving our requested timeframe, and that was it.  I wrote it in English, and also copied a translation in very poor Spanish, which I’m sure was awful given that I know only a few Spanish words.  I also believe it was useless, since we discovered when we visited that they speak most common European languages quite fluently.

The only other tip I have is to be flexible with your availability.  I requested any time during the last half of August, or all of September or October.  This was before I knew that they were closed in October, so I effectively gave them a month and a half window of time.  And then we planned our vacation after hearing back from Mr. Garcia.

While they have historically been open April through September, this year the schedule is shifting to mid-June through mid-December.  My guess is that you may have better luck with those off-season fall months.  Good luck!  Let us know if you send in a request and whether you get in.


Five days in San Francisco

Monday, October 6th, 2008

San Francisco
The Chez Panisse kitchen; Eric ready for dinner at Chez Panisse; Blue Bottle coffee at the Saturday market.

Eric’s f/1 photography group met for a weekend in San Francisco at the end of September.  The two of us flew down a few days early to do some eating, and then my friend Jacki and I toured around and shopped while the guys were doing their photography thing.  Here’s where we went:

  • Jardiniere – This is a classy, upscale, expensive place near the symphony.  The food was good, but not out of this world.  We had an excellent pinot recommendation – George Vintage IV, which we really loved.  And when we reached the end of the meal, we regretted having had (awesome) cocktails and drinking most of that bottle of pinot, since we had to miss out on the dessert tasting flights of name-your-drink.  They had a good two dozen different flights: armagnacs, tawnies, scotches, everything. Jardiniere on Urbanspoon
  • Boulette’s Larder – Eric and I went here for weekday brunch in the Ferry Building.  We sat outside on a brilliant beautiful day (as it was for our entire visit), overlooking the Bay Bridge.  They had a limited menu of impeccable simple ingredients.  We enjoyed poached eggs with beans and a beautiful slice of tomato, with a dusting of Parmigiano, along with a huge plate of toast from Acme Bread Company, a great bakery also in the building. Boulette's Larder on Urbanspoon

San Francisco
The Ferry Building; a farmer selling grapes; rotisserie chicken at the farmer’s market.

  • Slanted Door – This is a modern Vietnamese place in the Ferry Building.  We went here for a light lunch.  It was good, but I doubt I’d go back, since nothing we ordered impressed me hugely.  The size of the place and type of food vaguely reminded me of Wild Ginger in Seattle. Slanted Door on Urbanspoon
  • Chez Panisse – We hadn’t been here before, and were really impressed by the execution of a simple menu.  We went for a weeknight dinner and were offered one small tasting menu.  Just four courses seemed tiny compared to most restaurants’ lengthy tasting menus nowadays, but it was perfect – I hate the overstuffed feeling at the end of a huge meal, and this just made us feel satisfied and happy.  The food initially seemed like fairly standard local fare when reading the menu (tomato salad, lamb three ways), but the seasoning was spot on and little touches of simple things made the standard become inspired (such as tangy-salted handmade ricotta and warmed Nicoise with the tomato salad). Chez Panisse on Urbanspoon
  • La Taqueria – Great tacos in the Mission District.  They charge for extras like cheese and sour cream, which make it a little pricey, but worth it.  I couldn’t get over the fact that they would charge $1.20 to remove the beans from the tacos. La Taqueria on Urbanspoon

San Francisco
Bi-Rite ice cream cone; choosing flavors at Bi-Rite; a Ritual Coffee Roasters cappuccino.

  • Ritual Coffee Roasters – We stopped here for our caffeine fix in the Mission.  You can watch them roast the beans right there in the store. Ritual Coffee Roasters on Urbanspoon
  • Tartine Bakery – The line was out the door and inching slowly at this popular bakery.  I rested my feet at an outdoor table while Eric stood in line to get a slice of lemon meringue cake.  It was moist, yummy, and super-rich (I could barely eat more than a few bites). Tartine Bakery on Urbanspoon
  • Bi-Rite Creamery – Awesome ice cream.  Beats our Molly Moon, particularly the salted caramel ice cream, which is very close to my all-time favorite homemade ice cream (Bi-Rite’s is missing the yummy caramel praline bits).  I was really bummed when I found out that David Lebovitz would be visiting from Paris and signing cookbooks here only a week later. Bi-Rite Creamery and Bake Shop on Urbanspoon

San Francisco
Lemon meringue cake from Tartine; pop rocks dark chocolate bar enjoyed with peanut butter hot chocolate at Christopher Elbow; sole with corn chowder at Range.

  • Range – A one-Michelin-star restaurant tucked into a corner of the Mission District.  We had a reservation but chose to sit at a table in the bar, which had a better vibe than the rooms in the back.  We were all guessing what Eric’s “sole with corn and potato chowder” would be – chowder with sole in it, or sole with some chowder on the side?  Turned out it was neither.  The sole was served in a bowl with a shallow pool of chowder at the bottom and lots of chunky vegetables.  Don’t miss the homemade butterscotch pudding for dessert! Range on Urbanspoon
  • Ferry Building Farmer’s Market – The ferry building has lots of interesting food shops open every day of the week, but the place comes alive on Tuesdays and Saturdays when the farmers set up tables all around the building, and everyone in San Francisco comes out shopping.
  • Yank Sing – I didn’t go here, but Eric did with the guys for dim sum and said it was great. Yank Sing on Urbanspoon

San Francisco
Peppers at the Ferry Building Farmer’s Market; a mural in the Mission; the f/1 guys enjoying dim sum.

  • Rye – On the recommendation of Michelle and Kelly at Licorous, Jacki and I stopped here for pre-dinner cocktails.  The space is really cool.  Dark, brick walls, high ceilings except a lowered wood ceiling over the bar, a pool table near the bar, and a lounge on the other side of the room.  It looks like it would be a fun place to go late at night. Rye on Urbanspoon
  • Zuni Café – This was my second time here and it was just as amazing as I remembered.  Last time, we could tell there were a number of nooks and crannies behind the main dining loft, but I had no idea just how many there are.  The second floor dining rooms are tucked away everywhere, each with railings overlooking the first floor.  Loved the Caesar salad, and had a nibble of Jacki’s starved tomato salad – those were the best, sweetest tomatoes I’ve ever eaten.  The roast guinea hen was super-flavorful and juicy.  Yum. Zuni Cafe on Urbanspoon

San Francisco
The wood stove at Zuni Café; a tea shop in Chinatown; the starved tomato salad at Zuni Café.

  • Citizen Cake – We stopped here for brunch while shopping on Hayes Street.  I’m always a sucker for Dutch baby pancakes, and theirs was great. Citizen Cake on Urbanspoon
  • Christopher Elbow Chocolates – Lots of yummy gourmet truffles here (you can get some of them at Chocolopolis in Seattle), and interesting inclusion bars, too.  Jacki bought a dark chocolate bar with pop rocks, which fizzled on your tongue as you let it melt in your mouth.  They had a dozen different drinking chocolates – I liked drinking my peanut butter chocolate in the chocolate lounge. Christopher Elbow on Urbanspoon
  • Blue Bottle Coffee Company – We stopped to pick up espresso beans from the Hayes Valley location.  It was mid-afternoon and there was still a long line crossing the alleyway in front.  We didn’t get any drinks since we had had Blue Bottle mochas (made with Recchiuti chocolate!) just that morning from one of the two Blue Bottle stands at the market. Blue Bottle Coffee Company on Urbanspoon
  • Canteen – We all went here for Sunday brunch.  It’s a tiny, tiny place, like a small diner, so we had to split into two tables.  Breakfast was satisfying and tasty – I’d go back, and would like to try dinner here. Canteen on Urbanspoon

A quest for buffalo mozzarella

Saturday, September 6th, 2008

It was a hot August afternoon when we arrived in Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley.  We had been traveling by car and ferry for over six hours, and although we knew we were close, we thought we might have made a wrong turn when the country dirt road passed a sad stretch of logged tree stumps.  But the directions told us to follow the road to the very end, so we continued on and finally saw the red and white farmhouse peeking through the trees.

A group of people were walking out of the house with towels, headed to the nearby watering hole to cool off.  They had just finished an all-day cooking class with Mara Jernigan in the huge gourmet kitchen in the farmhouse.  Mara is the chef and proprietor of Fairburn Farm Culinary Retreat and Guesthouse.  She was once a culinary school instructor, and now champions the Slow Food movement, promoting local foods.  She has a strong connection to the land, and uses primarily organic and seasonal foods in her farm meals.  Mara is also one of the most down-to-earth and welcoming people we’ve met – she always seemed genuinely curious to know if we were enjoying ourselves and was happy to tell us about the farm, food, and living on the island.

Artichoke blossom
An artichoke blossom in Mara’s garden.

Fairburn Farm is over a century old and models itself like an Italian agriturismo – a working farm that offers meals and overnight accommodations.  We had read about it in a number of publications after Mara first came to the farm in 2005, including The Seattle Times, Gourmet, and Saveur magazines, which convinced us it would be a great stop during our week long vacation on the island.

Dinners are offered to overnight guests several nights a week.  That evening, we sat on the large farmhouse porch, overlooking the rolling countryside and the huge garden.  Mara’s son Julian, in chef’s whites, gathered last minute herbs from the garden as we sat down.  A butter plate for each of us arrived accompanied by a single purple pea pod.  Daniel, our server, said that they “promote” a different vegetable from the garden at each meal.

We opted for the four course meal that evening which included a delicious squash blossom from the garden stuffed with goat cheese and fried, then a sweet tomato soup, followed by roast duck, and then dessert.  The meal was quite impressive, and our only regret was missing out on the cheese course which came with the seven course meal.

Fairburn Farm
Goat cheese stuffed squash blossom; Mara’s rare breed San Clemente goat; heirloom chickens.

In the morning, we wandered downstairs to breakfast, where there was a small buffet with granola, yogurt, local blueberries, and juices.  We started on this while they prepared our cheese frittata and cappuccini.  Each morning, they offer farm gathered eggs in some form, along with vegetables from the garden (tomatoes, in this case), and toast served with homemade preserves (strawberry, today).

We spent our morning relaxing, reading, and exploring the farm.  The farm’s owners, Darrel and Anthea, own the only herd of water buffalo in Canada, and Darrel was milking them in the barn.  On another morning we watched the Natural Pastures Cheese Company truck pull up to transport the milk two hours north, to Courtenay, B.C., where they hand make limited quantities of buffalo mozzarella once a week.

Darrel is still growing the herd so that they can produce more milk.  There is a small barn on the property with about a dozen baby buffalo inside.  All were tagged with their name on their ear, except one who was tagless – that one was only four days old!

When they’re done milking, the buffalo are herded with a motorbike to one of the fields for grazing.  It was fun to watch them on the move.  When animals with such large horns moved so fast it was a little scary, but in fact they are quite docile creatures.  Darrel said that they’re mostly wary of people until they get to know you and adopt you into their family.  He decided to import the purebred animals in 2000 when he found that they were gentle yet hardy and adaptable to the British Columbia climate.

Baby water buffalo
A baby water buffalo.

Mara has some animals of her own on the farm.  She has a flock of beautiful heirloom chickens, along with a herd of sheep, and a small goat, who all graze in the apple orchard.  There is a lovely walk through the woods and around the property that deposits you right into the orchard outside the farmhouse, where the chickens meander toward you looking for handouts.

The heat of the day was setting in, but it was time for the meal we’d particularly been looking forward to: Sunday lunch on the farm.  Only ten of these six-course meals are offered each year.  You don’t need to be an overnight guest to dine, however.  We shared a table with the winemaker from Averill Creek and his wife, another woman from the area who herself was starting to grow wine grapes, her friend, and a couple from LA who were traveling around British Columbia on their motorcycle to celebrate his retirement.

The first course featured mozzarella from the farm’s buffalo milk served with sweet tomatoes and local balsamic vinegar.  Amazing!  I was quite sad that there was only one beautiful slice of the cheese to savor.  Another highlight was the crab lasagne, a delicate dish of handmade pasta gently folded around Dungeness crab.

We also enjoyed halibut and local lamb before finishing the meal with a cheese course and then dessert.  We were pleased to try the cheeses that we had missed the night before, including ones made up the road in Cowichan Bay (“Cow Bay” according to the locals at our table) at Hilary’s Cheese Company, along with several tasty cheeses from just across the water on Salt Spring Island.  Dessert was an ideal summer ending: blueberry pudding cake with softly whipped cream.

 Fairburn Farm
Lasagna with Dungeness crab, lemon verbena veloute and fresh fava beans; Sunday lunch at Fairburn; one of Mara’s chickens.

The farm is great for foodies for all sorts of reasons.  If you’re staying nearby and want to get a taste, come for a Sunday lunch.  Or you can stay overnight and have a few meals.  Some plan their vacation around the Saturday cooking classes or the week-long cooking boot camps, which book up months in advance.  And a lucky few even go to Italy with Mara in the fall to experience Italy’s Slow Food.

And the farmhouse accommodates a range of travelers.  Of course, they host a number of couples traveling alone, but the farmhouse has some rooms that work well for families, and even a 2½ bedroom cottage with kitchen for families with young kids or couples traveling together.  While we were there, a couple was staying there with their young daughter.  They’ve been coming for years to the farm, since she loves gathering eggs and watching the buffalo getting milked.  We watched the little girl’s eyes light up one afternoon as Mara handed her a pie at the kitchen door and told her it would be great for breakfast the next day.  The cottage is rented for one-week stretches during the summer, and weekends only during the off-season (since there is a family who lives there on weekdays during the school year).

Cowichan Bay is the tiny town just down the road, which, as you’d expect, is right on the bay.  It’s a great stop for lunch at Hilary’s Cheese Company, or True Grain Bread, which makes the best bread on the island (they’re connected by a door, and Hilary’s also uses True Grain for their sandwiches).  Then get dessert a couple doors down at The Udder Guy’s, where they make all-natural ice cream.  Take your cone out back where you can sit and watch the fishing boats.

There are plenty of foodie day trips, too, since this is Vancouver Island’s wine country.  One of the wineries, Venturi Schultze, also makes balsamic vinegar in the traditional way, and it’s worth it to book an appointment for a tour of the small facilities.  There’s even a cidery called Merridale, where you can sample their eight different hard apple ciders.  Their bistro is a good place for either lunch or a casual weekend dinner.

Mostly, though, we just hung around the farm itself, since the porch chairs are really inviting for kicking back for a few hours, reading and drinking in the beautiful countryside.  We were sad to leave.  As we were checking out, we asked Mara where we could find that incredible buffalo mozzarella.  She said that a few of the Thrifty’s on the island carry it, along with the Community Farm Store in Duncan.  She mentioned that she was putting together some photos of the cheese for a magazine which was writing up a list of the top 100 things to eat before you die.  I think I’d agree.

We spent the rest of the week on a quest for this mozzarella.  The supply is so limited that a few of the stores we went to said they can keep it on hand for a couple days at most, and sometimes no more than a few hours.  Sadly, it turns out that Natural Pastures didn’t make any cheese that week!  So we were forced to head home empty handed, but with resolve to return again.

To view more photos from our trip, go to our Vancouver Island album.

Fairburn Farm
3310 Jackson Road
Duncan, B.C., V9L 6N7
(250) 746-4637